July232012

Long County/Hinesville

For a while there (a week or more, I think), I was in and around Hinesville, Georgia. Hinesville is the county seat of Liberty County, but I spent a good deal of my time in Long County to the south. In fact, I made it a task to drive on every paved road in Long County. I may or may not have achieved that goal, but I definitively drove on far too many Long County roads. This is, I think, an unfortunate consequence of the humidity and my unwillingness to get sweaty. Driving becomes the only applicable activity because just sitting in your car or doing literally anything else outside (like standing) causes an inevitable accumulation of perspiration. I haven’t ridden my bike for two weeks and I’ve only gone on a few (carefully measured) hikes, because, without a shower to come home to, the sweat builds to a slime and then to a requisite stench. And I don’t like being around myself when I’m like that.

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June112012

Halftime

I’ve been here in Cape Coral, Florida for three weeks, staying at my uncle’s house, relishing the fact that I’ve got a bed and a shower and 600 television channels and warm food. I’m taking advantage of some avuncular (albeit obligatory) goodwill. He told me I could stay here as I long as I’d like, and I intend to take him up on that offer. Not because I’m tired of traveling, per se. I’m just tired. Exhausted. It turns out, sleeping in your car for two and a half months doesn’t lend itself to sufficient physical restoration. When you wake up wearier than when you fell asleep, the world ceases to have any of that peregrine luster, and you just drive around in a groggy, glaucous haze. Which makes everything considerably less fun. And that’s why I’m here: to recharge my batteries.

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June52012
“You live like this, sheltered, in a delicate world, and you believe you are living. Then you read a book… or you take a trip… and you discover that you are not living, that you are hibernating. The symptoms of hibernating are easily detectable: first, restlessness. The second symptom: absence of pleasure. That is all. It appears like an innocuous illness. Monotony, boredom, death. Millions live like this or die like this without knowing it. They work in offices. They drive a car. They picnic with their families. They raise children. And then some shock treatment takes place, a person, a book, a song, and it awakens them and saves them from death. Some never awaken.”

Anaïs Nin

May132012

The Vagabond Crawling

I wrote this on March 5th, the day before I left.

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A cloud, a universe,
we float inside floundering
cloistered,

travailing a great long while,
seeking the edges
to emerge, resurface.

To burst through,
a cold, dead lightning strike
to nowhere:

an ill-favored countryside,
burnt rocks and trees
and rolling hills for eras,

and there is discomfort there maybe,
in the wandering haze,
in the emptiness

of separation. The confusion—
postpartum—wariness
of the vagabond,

crawling, alighting upon
a beacon, a place unfamiliar
on fuliginous knees.

Whether to settle down
or pass through.
Or to pass through

eternally to jeers,
with a smile,
with no end.

May122012
“Pleasure to me is wonder—the unexplored, the unexpected, the thing that is hidden and the changeless thing that lurks behind superficial mutability. To trace the remote in the immediate; the eternal in the ephemeral; the past in the present; the infinite in the finite; these are to me the springs of delight and beauty.” H.P. Lovecraft
1PM
“There were many things I could do for two or three days and earn enough money to live on for the rest of the month. By temperament I’m a vagabond and a tramp. I don’t want money badly enough to work for it. In my opinion it’s a shame that there is so much work in the world. One of the saddest things is that the only thing that a man can do for eight hours a day, day after day, is work. You can’t eat eight hours a day nor drink for eight hours a day nor make love for eight hours — all you can do for eight hours is work. Which is the reason why man makes himself and everybody else so miserable and unhappy.” William Faulkner
March312012

Mojave

After Calico and Baker, I decided to go through part of the Mojave National Preserve. The drive is just this magnificent deathscape—the road surrounded on either side by arthritic, winding Joshua trees and sand everywhere. I may have passed three other cars on the entire drive, which, for me, spanned a loop of about 80 miles from Interstate 15 to Kelso to Cima and then back to Interstate 15. You really do get this keen sense of complete human isolation out there. The landscape is dry, rolling, infinite, and you pass through these hills, your car undulating as if on a roller coaster. In the distance, treeless dunes shift with the harsh desert winds, and the black, volcano-tarred hills rise like ashy shoulder blades. And it’s really something to behold.

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March62012

Go East

I’ll be driving around for a while. I don’t know where to or for how long. I’m more likely going to go to places out of the way, places no one visits, because maybe there’s something interesting there. This is something I’ve wanted to do since I was a child because I’m fascinated by the open road, the open landscape, and small towns. The idea is to encounter unknown places, to see sights that few people have seen or would want to see, to find beauty in a small human settlement or a vast plain of emptiness or even a sprawling, blighted metropolis. I come from a sprawling metropolis myself and, though I try to see the beauty in everything, there is a certain monotony in seeing and doing the same things every day. This is something near a pervasive and existential boredom, although I wouldn’t put it exactly on that scale. I like San Jose well enough and, in fact, there are aspects of it that I love, but I’m moved by this desire to see strange sights, unfamiliar sights, things I can’t just overlook. I want to see the world with fascination, the way a child sees it—glowing, deep, hazy, nostalgic. I want, perhaps, to be less cynical.

There is little aim here, in terms of direction. I don’t know what I’m going to see or which way I’m going to go. It’s all up in the air. I’m not even sure if I’ll like it or be repulsed by it…if the life of the vagabond is too far out of my comfort zone. In any event, I’m leaving today at some point.

I do this with the the understanding that there’s very little mystique left in America—that the concept of wandering across the country is more appealing to retired RV-ers who generally have specific tourist hot-spots in mind. But some of America’s lore was built on travel, on discovery, on a certain mystery in the Wild, Wild West. Some of Horace Greeley’s musings on Manifest Destiny can be paraphrased simply with “Go West, Young Man.” And there is a certain flourishing ambiguity in that sentiment—a sort of glowing optimism about an unsettled land. I myself am a product of either Manifest Destiny or the Dust Bowl—of a great urge to venture out to an unknown and prosperous West. But the reason I say there’s no mystique left, is because Western Civilization (and, really, native civilization before that) has ventured as far West as humanly possible. There’s nothing left to be settled, no unseen valleys or mountains, no inherent danger. We are content to codify our lives in the context of cities—of where we live, where we work, where we have fun—and there is no functional mystery there.

And, so, I’m going back East because I can go no farther to the West. In a manner of speaking, I’m going to rediscover, to see things and to see them differently, to experience things with clarity, with a focus on the unfamiliar. Because, although most of America shares much of the same culture, there are no two places alike, no two exact modes of existence. And I’d like to document that. I’d like to see it first hand.

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